A holistic esthetician answers your top questions about cleansing, barrier repair, and why “squeaky clean” isn’t the goal.
At Apoterra, we love to dive deep into what creates healthy skin from the inside out. We sat down with Naima, our in-house esthetician and lead educator, to explore why choosing a gentle cleanser is one of the most important steps in maintaining a strong, balanced skin barrier. Read on for her advice!
Q: Many people think a good cleanser should leave their skin feeling “squeaky clean.” Is this what you would recommend? If not, how should the skin feel after cleansing?
A: That “squeaky clean” feeling might seem satisfying, but it’s actually a red flag that your skin’s natural oils and protective lipids have been stripped away. A healthy cleanse should leave your skin feeling soft, comfortable, and balanced (not tight or dry) .
When your skin feels overly clean, it’s often because the cleanser has disrupted your skin barrier. This can lead to dehydration, irritation, and even breakouts, since your skin tries to overcompensate by producing more oil. Instead, you want your cleanser to gently remove impurities while maintaining your skin’s natural moisture levels.
Q: From an esthetician’s perspective, what are some signs that someone’s skin barrier has been compromised?
A: Some of the biggest clues are sensitivity, redness, flakiness, or a burning or stinging sensation when applying skincare products. Breakouts that seem unresponsive to treatment can also be a sign, especially if they’re accompanied by dryness or tightness.
As an esthetician, I also notice texture changes (skin that looks dull, papery, or inflamed). These are signs the barrier’s lipid layer isn’t functioning properly, meaning your skin is losing hydration faster than it can replenish it. When that happens, even well-formulated products won’t perform the same, because the skin simply can’t hold onto moisture.
Q: What do you wish all of your clients knew about the skin barrier—and how can cleansing help maintain or disrupt its function?
A: I wish everyone understood how intelligent the skin truly is. Your barrier isn’t something that needs to be “fixed” or constantly exfoliated…it needs to be supported. Every step in your routine either reinforces or weakens that protection.
Cleansing is where this support begins. The right cleanser will remove buildup without disturbing the microbiome , helping the skin stay hydrated and calm. The wrong one can instantly disrupt your barrier’s natural pH and moisture balance. So if you’re using a cleanser that leaves your face feeling stripped, it’s time to switch to something gentler.
Q: When looking for a gentle face cleanser, what ingredients do you recommend clients look for, and which should they avoid?
A: Look for cleansers that are pH-balanced , cream or oil-based, and formulated with hydrating humectants and soothing botanicals . Ingredients like glycerin, aloe, and sodium PCA help attract moisture and maintain the skin’s barrier, while chamomile and natural oils such as jojoba or sunflower seed gently cleanse and calm the skin.
Avoid anything with harsh surfactants like sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS) or heavy foaming agents, which can strip the skin. Also, be mindful of synthetic fragrances and alcohols that can dry out or irritate the barrier. Your cleanser should feel more like a treatment and something that nurtures your skin.
Q: How can someone transition their routine to be more barrier-supportive, even if they’ve been using harsh cleansers or exfoliants for a long time?
A: Start by simplifying. You don’t need to overhaul everything at once, just remove what’s causing harm and add nourishment in its place. Swap your foaming or gel cleanser for a cream, oil or milk cleanser that respects your barrier. Reduce exfoliation to once or twice a week at most, and focus on hydration: toners, mists, and balms are your best friends.
It’s also important to give your skin time to recalibrate. When you stop over-cleansing, your barrier begins to repair itself, and that can take a few weeks. Be patient and consistent. Your skin will always move toward balance when you give it the right environment.
Q: For someone experiencing signs of a compromised skin barrier, how can switching to a gentle face cleanser transform their skin?
A: When your skin barrier is struggling, the first thing I always look at is the cleanser. Cleansing is where so many people accidentally cause damage without realizing it. Switching to a gentle, nourishing cleanser can make a big difference. I love cream or oil-based cleansers because they cleanse without disruption. The Chamomile & Tansy Hydrating Cream Cleanser is one of my favorites for barrier support —it melts away makeup and buildup while keeping the skin soft, hydrated, and calm. The blend of blue tansy, chamomile, aloe, and watermelon works beautifully to soothe irritation and restore hydration, while cupuaçu butter helps lock in moisture.
If you prefer an oil cleanse, the Vetiver Illuminating Oil Cleanser is a beautiful ritual in itself . It transforms from a silky oil into a milky emulsion when you add water, dissolving impurities without stripping the skin. With tamanu and black cumin seed oils to purify and brighten, and grounding essential oils of vetiver, lime, and cedar, it’s especially helpful for those dealing with congestion or dryness.
From a holistic perspective, cleansing should feel like a reset. It’s about creating harmony, removing buildup while nurturing your skin’s natural rhythm and protective layer. Once you find a gentle cleanser that supports your barrier, every other step in your routine starts to work more effectively.
If you want to take that barrier-loving routine further, the Barrier Repair Discovery Kit is an ideal next step . It includes the Chamomile & Tansy Hydrating Cream Cleanser, the Rose Essential Hydration Mist , and the Vitamin C Regenerative Balm —a complete trio for restoring balance and glow. The Rose Mist delivers instant hydration and antioxidant support, helping to soothe inflammation and prep the skin to better absorb nutrients. The Vitamin C Regenerative Balm then seals it all in with rich, reparative botanicals that plump fine lines, soften texture, and strengthen the skin’s barrier over time. Together, they create a regimen of cleansing, hydrating, and nourishing that helps your skin rebuild strength, resilience, and a naturally radiant glow.
Products featured:
- Chamomile & Tansy Hydrating Cream Cleanser
- Barrier Repair Discovery Kit
- Vetiver Illuminating Oil Cleanser
Thank you Naima for this amazing interview! Have more questions about skin barrier repair and how to know if you should switch to a gentle face cleanser? Leave a comment below or contact us at info@apoterra.com!